Kelly McDonald - Free Surfboard and Wetsuit Essay Contest Entrant
I really enjoyed Kelly’s mini-memoir. Her hearts in the right place, but considering her income level, her obvious drive, passion and resourcefulness, and that she wants to start giving lessons and transition to a career in the surf industry, I figured she pretty much had a handle on it and the suits would be better off in the hands of someone of more modest means and ambition. Enjoy her essay.
Aloha!
My name is Kelly McDonald and I hail from Indiana. I am part of the first-born American generation in my family. Both sides come from Ireland. I grew up on our family farm. We were poor, but when you are a kid, dirt is the most exciting thing ever! Piles of leaves are a wonderland. And snowmen, well…they speak for themselves. Then I grew up and had to go on my way.
After a stint in the Peace Corps, I decided to go to law school, which placed me here in San Francisco. I wanted to practice environmental law and work for the critters. I have been an avid bird watcher my whole life. 34 years of animals, birds and nature instilled a calling in me.
I was fortunate enough to work for Defenders of Wildlife for 3 years as an advocate for endangered species. Part of my job was to lobby, and speak in front of the legislature, and essentially have my ass handed to me by old men and pissed off women.
I was scared to death to do this, since I was always afraid of public speaking. However, I did it, teeth chattering. It didn’t kill me. I couldn’t believe how fun it was.
So, let’s get to the point.
I realized that if life were going to give me all it had, I needed to face my fears. So, since I flunked math twice (once in junior high and once in high school) I decided to take an algebra class at 28 years old. I hated every second of it, but it did. I am proud of that!
Then, I turned to the ocean. I have always been fascinated by and terrified of it, all at the same time. While in law school, I had seen people out in the water surfing and I wondered what in the world had gotten into them and why they would punish themselves that way.
I was so curious that 4 years ago, I walked up to a guy getting out of the water and quite frankly asked him why he was going out there in the freezing cold, with sharks patrolling, etc. He stopped, took a moment, and said something to me that changed my life.
“If I didn’t have surfing, I would be dead. I used to be a meth addict and surfing is the only thing that keeps me sober. It’s my life now and I can’t imagine life without it. I used to feel that way about drugs, but when I am out there, it’s all about the stoke. My stoke. Each person has his own.”
I was NOT expecting this kind of response. I was moved. My sister is a meth addict and knew this was no coincidence.
So, I took a surfing lesson in February in Santa Cruz, got up the first wave, and BOOM, I was hooked.
Over the years, I have learned so much about life surfing the waves in California, Oregon, Washington and Vancouver. It has shaped me in ways I still don’t understand but I do know that I am more patient, kind, and non-judgmental as a result.
So, sir or madam, the reason I tell you this story is that I have a passion. I am an attorney at a big firm now. It’s a corporate job. I surf on the weekends. It’s not enough.
I have decided to start giving lessons so I can give to others what I have gleaned from my experience in surfing. Eventually, I hope to migrate away from the firm and start my own business, likely in the surfing industry. They say follow your dreams, and I do believe I will, thank you!
If you donated these wet suits and board to me, you would making someone’s dream come true. Little by little, I know I can do this. I just need to get started and I think you may be the catalyst.
Ready to help a dream get in motion?
I can’t wait.
Thank you for reading my story.
Sincerely,
K-Mac (Kelly McDonald).
No comments yet.